Gastronomic tour of Isaan

Posted by paul on August 26th, 2009 filed in Culture & customs, Isarn, Travel destinations, Up Country

Have a few days to spare? Then take a culinary trip of Thailand’s northeast, known as the Isaan region.

“Naam Plaa Raa” is to Isaan cuisine what fish sauce is to Central Thailand cooking. Spicy minced pork, bamboo curry, papaya salad or hot pot, there aren’t any Isaan dishes improved by drops of fermented fish sauce. Those travellers that may have hunted down authentic Isaan food during a tour to the northeast of Thailand most likely have noticed this.

“How much Plaa Raa do you want in your papaya salad?” or “Should I add some more plaa raa sauce to your hot pot?” are questions that most visitors will be asked when visiting one of the many food stalls or small restaurants.

Downtown Khon Kaen is a great hot and spicy centre. Visitors here should visit the fresh food market, known as Bang Lampu. At the market they can see for themselves the huge amounts of catfish caught in the Ubonrat Reservoir, supplying the “plaa raa production.” Next to the fishmongers are stalls groaning under mushrooms, bamboo shoots, olives and wild berries.

Along Mittraphap Road, there’re literally hundreds of family-operated eateries, many of the establishments bearing the names of their founders, plus shacks selling roasted chicken as far as the eye can see. The roasted chicken’s secret, it is said, is the spicy dipping sauce and unique marinade. After a long swim in the marinade, which is prepared with ginger, soy sauce, coriander, garlic, black pepper and other ingredients, for about 20 minutes the chicken is laid over the glowing charcoal. A mouth-watering, golden-skinned bird is the result.

Jaew hon is the region’s version of the Japanese hot pot. You order vegetables, offal and small sets of raw meat and prepare it for yourself in the boiling broth, using dipping sauce to spice the cooked morsels.

Located opposite Khon Kaen Airport is the Green Leaf Restaurant, which is a great place to sample some Isaan fushion food. Here you should try a dinner orchestrated by spicy minced salmon, pumpkin soup, spaghetti with north-eastern sausage and fried rice mixed with jaew bong (chilli paste prepared with plenty of plaa raa sauce)