The wise elephant

Posted by Art man on November 1st, 2007 filed in Living here, The North

In any city popular with tourists, there is an inherent separation in the restaurant/bar racket. There are the bars that were here before the tourists, the bars that were opened because of the tourists, and the bras that changed or didn’t change because of the tourists. And so being a tourist, the goal becomes to avoid the places that were built specifically and overpriced accordingly just for you, the tourist, and infiltrate local culture. In some cities, the challenge is won when you find a local bar situated right in the middle of the tourist centre; a quiet affront to the vultures around outside. These are usually the most satisfying.

Chiang Mai has its share of gaudy cafés that assume all foreigners are John Denver and Mr. Big fans, and to find a place where you don’t feel you’ve been corralled into a kitsch-warp can be a challenge. Chiang Mai is in a state of arrested development musically speaking, making the quest for a bar with decent tunes all the more urgent.

Thankfully, there is a place that doesn’t do too badly music-wise, and serves great drinks and excellent food to boot. It was made for tourists essentially, but has managed to skirt the chasms of bad taste and give off the vibe that you are in a surrogate living room. It’s cozy, comfortable, and the owner is simply one of the most affable chaps you’ll come across in Chiang Mai, escorting drunkards home, running out for cigarettes and acting as neighbourhood psychologist as well form time to time.

The bar is full of regulars in a town full of transients.
It’s called ***** *******, which translates from Thai as ‘the wise elephant’, and with its location smack dab in guesthouse central, the authentic vibe is all the more coveted.

The owner spent 10 years in Switzerland before returning to his native Thailand to open his little business, so his French is quite good. And we know what the French are generally like abroad, they stick together, which means his language skills coupled with affordable glasses of Pastis, the local French community gravitate to the place like melted brie on baguettes. The running alternate name for the place is ‘L’Ambassade’.

But even if you don’t speak French, the place is one of few in Chiang Mai that really feels like you are at home relaxing, with its large couch that sinking into to read a newspaper is one of the small but satisfying pleasures in this town.

Is this an advertisement? No, it’s not.  Where exactly is this bar, you ask?? Well, what fun would it be if I just told you? The traveller’s quest for a bar like this is a personal one, and like everything worthwhile, must be accomplished under your own steam. If you’re French, your sixth sense will probably lead you here without conscious knowledge anyway, and if the rest of you happen to stumble across the Wise Elephant, be sure to stop in for a Mojito or two. Tell Chai Dave sent you.