The sunny south of Thailand

Southern Thailand is large and inviting, featuring dozens of beautiful islands and a whole host of pristine beaches on which to top up your tan or enjoy water sports. The most famous resorts are on the west-facing Andaman Sea coastline, and the east-facing Gulf of Thailand coast.

Many people head straight to the South of Thailand and spend the rest of their stay enjoying all that this beautiful region has to offer. There are 14 provinces in all and each offers something different, to the highly popular and crowded areas in Phuket and Krabi to the much quieter, less visited areas of Songkla and Yala near the border with Malaysia.

Although areas of the west coast of Thailand were badly affected by the Indian Ocean tsunami of December 2004, all infrastructure has long since been repaired thanks to the hard work of local and international volunteers. Perhaps the most effected area was Ko Phi Phi, and people still wanting to make a contribution can do so through the Children of Phi Phi Island foundation

Many people tend to avoid the very south of Thailand, scared off by the stories of bombing and murders. The trouble started in 2004, when a long resentment in the southern-most Muslim-majority provinces burst into violence in Narathiwat, Pattani and Yala provinces. However, this all took place well off the beaten tourist trail, and few visitors were affected.

The Songkla Province town of Hat Yai has also been hit by a series of related bombings, although none of the islands or the west coast beaches have been targeted.

In September 2006, three foreigners were killed in Hat Yai bomb blasts. Some rebel groups have threatened foreigners, but no westerners have been directly singled out for attacks and generally the south of Thailand is still a safe place to travel.

In September 2006, three foreigners were killed in Hat Yai bomb blasts. Some rebel groups have threatened foreigners, but no westerners have been directly

Introducing Eastern Thailand

Eastern Thailand contains 7 provinces, situated to the south of Isaan and east of the Central Thailand, between Bangkok and Cambodia.

This region of Thailand is particularly popular with visitors who wish to enjoy all the natural beauty and golden beaches of Southern Thailand whilst avoiding the crowds.

For many, the tourist destination of Pattaya provides an interesting diversion, whilst others head straight to the beautiful island of Ko Samet to enjoy all the benefits of an island holiday with less of the hassles.

The large island of Ko Chang is a great place to spend a few days and there are many areas of natural beauty located on the island as well as several smaller isalnds close by. This is a great place to go snorkeling and diving as there is plenty of pristine coral and colourful fish to see.

The town of Si Racha is well known for its deliciously spicy sauce and seafood, and while there visitors can visit the Sri Racha Tiger Zoo for the oportunity to cuddle the tiny tiger cubs.

For travellers who really want to get away from it all, the peaceful island of Ko Si Chang makes a great destination as it is virtually ignored by tourists.

Although the region is easily reachable by bus, there is are also small airports at U-Tapao and Trat.

Exploring Central Thailand

Most visitors to Thailand begin their journey in Central Thailand. Although many find the bustling capital city of Bangkok a little bit too populated and overwhelming, there are many beautiful locations close by. Whilst in the metropolis, check out the large lush parks, chill out at a rooftop bar and take a trip down the river to discover the sleepy Mon settlement of Ko Kret, which is famous for its pottery kilns and abundant beauty.

There are 19 provinces in Central Thailand, of which most are widely visited by tourists and international travelers. Perhaps the most well known province is Kanchanaburi, famous for the Bridge over the River Kwai, tiger temple and stunning natural scenery such as the Erawan National Park.

There are also several beautiful beaches in Central Thailand, and Hua Hin should not be missed, especially during the Jazz Festival, when thousands of people flock to the beaches to listen to some of the best jazz music from around the world.

Dotted around the region are some enchanting islands and especially worth visiting is the pleasant beach area of Cha’am, which is just a two hour bus journey from Bangkok. However, the island is very popular with Thai people and can become very crowded on the weekends and during major holidays.

whilst lovers of history will find their heart’s desire amongst the interesting ruins of the Ayutthaya Historical Park and Nakhon Pathom, which is Thailand’s oldest city and features the largest stupa in the world.

Generally speaking, travel within Central Thailand is undemanding as there is a good road and rail network. Catering to tourist tastes and taste buds, this is a good region in which to take it easy and acclimatize to Thailand.

Playing sport

Muay Thai, which is Thailand’s unique form of boxing, is the nation’s best-known sport. This sports is a type of martial art and is now practiced in countries all over the world. Known as The Art of the Eight Limbs, Muay Thai is Thailand’s national sport.

Unlike Western boxing, in Muay Thai the hands, shins, elbows, and knees are all used extensively.

There are many strict rules governing public Muay Thai matches. For example, only boxing shorts are permitted to be worn, and the colour depends on which corner the fighter is in; red, pink, or maroon or with a red stripe for the red corner; blue, bright blue, black for the blue corner.

Both fighters perform the Wai Kru (paying respect to the teacher) before the start of the first round, and a special dance called Ram Muay (accompanied by the appropriate Thai traditional music.

A Muay Thai matches last for five rounds; 3 minutes per round with a 2 minute break between each round.

Muay Thai matches can be scene all over Thailand, especially in tourist areas, where small rings are often set up in go-go bars.

A great place to enjoy a match is Lumpini Stadium, where matches are generally of a very professional level.

Another uniquely Thai sport is takraw, which is very similar to volleyball except that it uses an odd looking rattan ball and players are allowed to touch the ball using their feet, knees, chest and head.

Groups of people (usually boys and young men) can be seen in the streets all over Thailand playing this highly addictive and entertaining sport. There are even murals at Wat Phra Kaew that show the Hindu god Hanuman playing takraw in a ring with a troop of monkeys.

All you need to play is a special rattan ball, a net and an area of roughly 13 m x 6 meters free from all obstacles.

Football is naturally very popular in Thailand and many people worship teams from the English Premier League such as Manchester United, Chelsea and Arsenal. Thailand also has it’s own Thai League.

Check out Udon Thani

The north-eastern province of Udon Thani covers an area of 11,730 square kilometres and is situated 564 kilometres from Bangkok. This interesting region is probably most famous for its archaeological wonders, which include Ban Chiang, where the world’s first Bronze Age civilization is supposed to have thrived over 5,000 years ago. This important histological centre is located 50 kilometres to the east of the city of Udon Thani. Whilst there, pay a visit to the Ban Chiang National Museum to learn more about the artefacts on display.

Another interesting source of local history is the Phu Phrabat Historical Park, which features an interesting collection of ancient cave paintings, whilst the Udon Thai Provincial Museum is also worth a visit.

Udon Thani has many intriguing surprises just waiting to be discovered. At the Udon Sunshine Orchid Garden you can see plants that actually ‘dance’ to music. These rare and interesting plants sway when exposed to loud sounds and are particularly responsive to the saxophone. Try to time your visit between November and February when the plants are at their most active.

Sanjao Pu-ja is a colourful Chinese temple located in the heart of the city. Other interesting temples to visit in the area include Wat Ban Tat, Wat Pa Ban Kho, Phra Phutthabat Bua Bok – which contains a holy footprint of the Lord Buddha – and the Buddhist park of Wat Pa Phu Kon.

Many people travel to this region to visit Wat Pa Ban Tad, which is located 16 kilometres south of Udon Thani city. This sacred temple offers visitors the opportunity to study meditation with a highly revered meditation master.

16 kilometres to the north of Udon Thani city is the weaving village of Ban Na Kha. Here you will discover people creating the unique khit patterned fabric and the pretty temple of Wat Na Ka Taewee.

There are several attractive waterfalls in the area located amongst lush forests. Among those worth visiting are the Than Ngam Waterfall, and the Yung Thong Waterfall, which is located in the striking Na Yung Nam Som Forest Park.

If you are in the area in December, look out for the Thung Si Meuang Festival, which features loud Isan music, singing and performances of the unique dragon and lion dancing.

Discover Yala

Welcome to Yala, the southernmost province of Thailand. This interesting province is predominately Muslim and has a great deal or interesting history, culture and beautiful scenery to explore. The province’s unique mixture of Thai, Chinese, and Islamic cultural heritage makes it a very rewarding place to get to know.

Yala is well loved for its natural beauty, and the area comprises a large number of parks. Top of the list for nature lovers should be the Betong Municipality Park, which occupies an area of 120 square kilometres on a hill in the middle of Betong city centre. This park offers great views over the city as well as several large gardens, a sports ground, a swimming pool, and a playground. Another interesting park is Sanam Chang Phueak Park.

Yala Province is blessed with a large number of sparkling waterfalls to enjoy, most of which can be swam in. Not to be missed are Namtok Than To, Namtok Inthason, Namtok Bu Ke Pilo and Namtok La-ong Rung – which means Rainbow Waterfall in the Thai language. Betong Hot Spring is a great place to soak away your aches and pains and there are also some interesting caves to explore such as Tham Krachaeng, Tham Mae Nang Montho and Tham Sin, where you will discover an ancient mural depicting the different postures of the Lord Buddha and a painting of three women standing together on the cave wall.

Of course, in area with such an interesting background it is only natural that the diverse history and culture should be reflected in Yala’s temples. Among those of interest to visitors are Yala Central Mosque, Wat Khuhaphimuk and Phra Mahathat Chedi Phra Phutthathammaprakat, which is located on a hilltop in Betong city centre. The enormous chedi has been built in the modern Sivijaya style and covered in gold.

There are many other interesting attractions in the area such as the City Pillar Shrine, Bang Lang Dam and the Largest Mail Box in Thailand.

What to do in Thailand after dark

Featuring plenty of gorgeous girls, pumping beats and delicious cocktails or offering the chance to simply to simply relax and unwind under the stars, Thailand offers a wide range of entertainment options for those out and about in the evening.

Most of the more vibrant nightlife can be found in Bangkok, but there are also colourful options in Pattaya, Phuket, Chiang Mai and large towns. On the islands, wild beach parties and bar hopping form the main types of entertainment. It is worth remembering that most bars, restaurants and clubs have a 1 am curfew. However, there are usually one or two places around where you can continue drinking if you want.

Here is a run down on some of the types of entertainment available.

Cabaret Shows can be found in the cities and large tourist areas. This is an extremely colourful affair where dozens of stunning women dance on stage in dazzling sequin covered outfits. Thailand also offers Tiffany Shows, a own unique twist on the traditional cabaret show. Now world famous, these transvestite or ‘lady boy’ shows are extremely entertaining. The performers are stunning and the shows contain comedy and dramatic displays as well as singing and dancing.

Bangkok is by far the best place to go clubbing in Thailand. There is an incredible variety of clubs where you can dance the night away, from the classy Bed Supperclub in Sukhumvit, to the male-orientated DJ Station in Silom. Another great option is Royal City Avenue (RCA), where there are dozens of clubs and bars playing everything from Thai disco music to hardcore Drum and Bass, Hip Hop and Techno. Expect to pay a cover charge at most clubs (300 baht+) and take a photocopy of your passport for identification.

Go-Go bars can be found in most cities and large towns, especially Bangkok, Phuket and Pattaya. They are generally located in special areas and can be easily identified by the flashy neon signs and scantily dressed women in the doorways. In Bangkok, head for Soi Cowboy, Nana Plaza or Patpong.

Karaoke Bars can be found all over Thailand. Imported from Isaan, these bars specialise in loud Isaan music, flashing coloured lights and sexily dressed women crooning on stage. Many bars also have a selection of Western songs and Westerners are welcome to sing, although be aware that a charge for this is often included in your bill.

Full Moon Parties are another Thai speciality. The most famous of these can be found on Koh Phangan, where is it so popular that they now hold a half moon party as well. Other good places to party on the beach include Koh Phi Phi and Raleigh beach. Bars usually play loud music until dawn and you can expect a selection of DJs, spectacular decorations and fire shows.

Alternatively, if you just want to take it easy, there are movie theatres all over Thailand. All show movies in English with Thai subtitles, even in small villages. When booking, make sure you ask for the ‘subtitle’ movie. A tribute to the king is played at the start of the movie, and you are expected to stand and show respect along with everyone else. The movie theatres are highly air conditioned and can be a bit chilly, so it is a good idea to take along a light jumper or jacket.

Cooking for friends, British style!

Cooking for friends is always a little stressful. You never know what they expect, how hungry people are or if you’re long-practiced masterpiece will turn out as you’d hoped. But throw in unfamiliar surroundings, a tiny oven and a smattering of Thai friends who are more at home with a tom yam than a hotpot, and things get a little hot in the kitchen.

Yes, I decided to cook a traditional English Sunday roast this past weekend for an assembled party of nine guests. In the UK my efforts are a source of tremendous pride (national I think) and I was desperate to put on a good show to persuade my companions that the green and verdant country I call home is not a culinary wasteland.

Conditions were not ideal, not through anyone’s fault I might add, but one small oven with a single level to prepare meat, potatoes, vegetables, Yorkshire puddings and gravy required sufficient logistical dexterity to give a Swiss watchmaker a migraine. However, in the end everything turned out very well (slightly burnt puddings aside) and everyone was extremely complimentary. And with flowing wine and the best possible company, what else could matter?

Time to heal old wounds

So what next for Thailand? The nation’s tourism industry is reeling from every conceivable nation advising against travel here, Thaksin’s been indicted on terrorism charges and the red shirts are vowing more protests. We may have reached a hiatus in the bloodshed, but it is surely just that and tensions will once again be stoked up to boiling point.

The destruction that gripped Bangkok will take months to repair, but the wounds that have been left in the national psyche will take even longer. This land of smiles is now irrefutably a divided territory. This a country at civil war where two diametrically apposed bodies seem hell bent on destroying each other, and everything else in between.

But this is not a hopeless state of affairs. Ordinary people will be so horrified with what’s occurred that perhaps a new moderate sense of unity can be achieved. Thais have so much in common and are normally so peaceful and welcoming that this shocking turn of events has appeared even more brutal.

Both sides must see that there are absolutes which can never be achieved – Thaksin in power and deputy PM Suthep facing criminal charges being two insurmountable obstacles that should be forgotten. If you look at Northern Ireland and the progress made there it is clear that conciliation is possible even in the most bleak circumstances, but real effort has to be made to make it happen.

Curfew was annoying but saved lives

Having not been under curfew since I was 12-years-old, this weekend in Thailand has proved to be a puzzling experience. Luckily we had a 07:00 start for a Mae Sae visa run on Saturday, so in effect the early-to-bed regime could not have come at a better time. And despite the undoubted detrimental effect on the city’s bars and restaurants, there’s little doubt in my mind that the measures saved lives and property.

Feelings have been very tense of late. That infamous laidback Thai attitude and smile has oft-threatened to erupt into that strange brand of bedlam that makes this country such a bemusing place to live. A lot of destruction did occur late week with fire engines and buildings torched in a mirror of Bangkok’s troubles further south.

Hopefully with the clearing out of Silom and the legion of buses winding their way back up to Isaan we can put these troubles to bed for a while at least. Of course, the red shirt leadership we have to stand trial for their part in the carnage, and quite rightly so. And it would be astonishing if this did not arouse yet more sporadic violence, with the dilemma of elections still not solved. But I hope we can just enjoy the relative calm for a while.